Easter in Greece

The amplified sound of priests chanting (a nice change from the call to prayer) drew me out of my hotel room on Good Friday. It had been a full day, and we’d arrived less than an hour ago, but I couldn’t resist getting out into the middle of part of the Greek Easter celebration. It was easy to find my way to the church closest to the hotel. I just had to follow the chants, and the stream of people carrying candles, stopping of course to admire the view of the Acropolis lit up at night. Soon my attention was turned back to the Easter celebration. We came across hoards of people on one of the walkways through the section of Athens where the ancient sites are centered. I was able to slowly wind my way closer to the tiny church whose chants had drawn me out. But mostly I was drawn to the sight of all of these people standing around outside with lit candles. There must have been several hundred people, and I could only imagine that something similar was going on all over the city. Suddenly there was a more concentrated movement, and to my surprise I saw a flower covered dome being carried out of the church. What? This definitely isn’t part of Catholic Good Friday services. We turned to follow along as all of the other people were doing. Walking for about 15 minutes in the park until everyone stopped and parted to the sides opening up the sidewalk for the formal procession to return. The altar boy carrying candles, a candle decked cross, the priests flinging holy water, and then the flower covered form being carried by 4 men. (My guidebook later mentioned that it was common to process through the streets with an effigy of Christ). Okay, it’s Easter week.

Easter Sunday, or rather the vigil mass which began at 11 pm and continued until about 1 am did not make nearly as large of an impression on me as the Good Friday service did. Candles were still in abundance. The church bells ringing over the city brought a smile to my face. The view of another tradition – whole roasted lamb being turned over a fire on the sidewalk – was not quite as appealing (yet fascinating in its own way). I had to wait until two days after Easter before I actually was given a red egg (another tradition in Greece) but was happy to have a real Easter egg this year, no matter how late it came. Easter was a fascinating way to experience the beginning of my trip to Greece providing me with a different look at some of the customs of this country I would have otherwise missed.